Ever since moving away from Slovakia, I keep going back for crazy adventures, like Slovensky Raj. Translating to English as the Slovak Paradise, this massive campsite offers something for everyone:
- campsites for tents
- big communal accommodation centres
- private cottages to rent
- animals / horse riding
- incredible hiking routes
- local restaurants
- etc., etc.
What always keeps me going back are the Tatra mountains. Even though Slovak Paradise isn’t on the mountain range, the High Tatras are very visible, and oh my! That is a sight that I will never grow tired of.
So, since we weren’t strictly climbing up a side of a mountain this time, what were we going to be up to? In fact something so crazy that I truly feel like I pushed myself to the limit:
Suchá Belá in Slovensky Raj
Suchá Belá is basically a gorge between two mountains. Running through the gorge is a mountain stream, which means there are multiple beautiful waterfalls on the route. The thing that makes this hike extraordinary is the fact that most of the time you’re not touching the ground.
How’s that possible, you ask? Well, we’ll get to that in a bit. But first I have to mention that this was the first time ever that I went on a weekend trip with only one pair of shoes: my running trainers.
In fact, since the all-day trip to Suchá Belá was the main activity on this trip, I was able to fit everything I needed into one small backpack. I’m immensely proud of this. The car from Bratislava was quite packed so my little backpack worked out really well.
The drive to Slovak Paradise from Bratislava took about four hours and on the way there were multiple Kolibas worth stopping at. Koliba is a traditional Slovak restaurant that can be found along the main roads. Our stop also had huge cows and a skiing slope waiting for the colder season.
And here you can see the route that we took (plus the abundance of other hiking routes). We took the green route through the gorge and then continued to the left along the yellow line. At the top we were almost 1 km above ground level, which is not that impressive, though, next to the Tatra Mountains.
Misové vodopady
Before heading to Podlesok we got ourselves insured. Starting from the parking lot on the bottom left corner of the map above, we headed for an adventure that would test my nerves more than I could’ve expected.
The first kilometre was easy enough, but as the gorge is basically just a pathway for the mountain stream, it didn’t take long until my socks were already wet. Trainers were perhaps not the best option but I refuse to buy specific hiking shoes when I only do these trips once every two or three years… I can handle wet socks!
But not to worry, because after the first couple kilometres we got off the ground and continued on ladders. Oh yes, Slovensky Raj offers horizontal as well as vertical ladders, both terrifying.
Because the gorge is always wet, thanks to the stream, the ladders made out of wood were very slippery. Every step had to be considered and carefully placed at the exact right spot. Perhaps if you don’t suffer from insufferable knees like I do, you mightn’t need to pay all that much attention to where you step.
But, as it turned out, the horizontal ladders were the least of my worries. Because after not too long we came across the first vertical ladders leaning against the mountain side. Very thin, riggety, and not-so-stable looking ladders.
No safety harnesses or ropes to hold on to, just a very steep metal frame to climb up. I watched a woman of a similar build and age climb before me, and it certainly did not fill me with confidence.
But I had no choice; the only way was up!
So, I placed my foot on the first step, grabbed the highest step I could reach (thank goodness I had gloves!) and started climbing. If I had to pay attention with the horizontal ladders, it was nothing compared to this!
- Every single step and placing of my hand was carefully calculated
- Once I found a good rhythm, I forced myself to focus on that and my body movements, and nothing else
- It was slow progress but progress nonetheless
- The trick is to NOT look down or up because down is already too far, and up is most probably also still too far.
Slovensky Raj won’t let you relax too much. After each climb you continue along these very narrow metal slabs or steps that have been forced into the mountain side. Again, they are wet and you have no protective gear, so every step counts.
Also, I have to add that this route is not for those who are afraid of heights! I’m not, but I did find myself scared enough climbing those ladders that the entire ladders were shaking to the rhythm of my legs.
But oh my goodness, once you get through it and to the top, the feeling of achievement cannot be compared! Now, that’s what it feels like to be a winner in Life! And the views and colour displays put on by Mother Nature in October weren’t too bad either.
Prielom Hornádu
Once you get to the top of Slovensky Raj, you can let your nerves rest for a bit. Continue along a simple mountain path until you get to a lodge selling food and drinks. Have some gula? and a beer, maybe a shot of something local. But don’t drink too much because you still need to get down the mountain.
And as often, climbing down is much trickier than climbing up. This descent was hard enough but since we weren’t that high up in the first place, we managed it reasonably fast.
Climbing down you end up by the prielom Hornádu, which is a river. Walking along this river you get back to Podlesok and to the parking lot. But once again the Slovak Paradise ensures that things don’t get too easy for ya:
Most of the way consists of similar metal ‘steps’ as in the gorge between ladders. Here you at least have some rope to hang on to, so you don’t fall into the water below.
Is Slovensky Raj worth visiting?
Whether you’re an adventure addict who finds some sick enjoyment from pushing herself to the absolute ends of her limits or someone who prefers a chill camping/glamping weekend, Slovak Paradise is the perfect fit for both of us!
It offers adventure of all sorts to people of all ages. The entry fee into the hiking routes is
- 4€ for people over 15 years of age
- 3€ between the ages of 6 – 15
- Anyone younger is free, but I truly advise against bringing younger children to the gorge!
Yes, there were plenty of primary school aged kids climbing those insane ladders with us. And on the way back along the river we bumped into a group of elderly Hungarians who understandably moved along very slowly.
But considering how exhausted my well exercised body was from the hike and climbing, I would not recommend the gorge or the path above the river to those who are not properly fit. The way is wet and it only takes one wrong step to seriously injure oneself.
As an experience I give Slovensky Raj 10/10! It pushed me to new limits but I kept my calm and pushed on, I could not be more proud of that achievement. And I didn’t get hurt at all! Unless we count the muscle ache the next day, that was ridiiiiculous…
