In recent years vegan leather has become a popular alternative to traditional animal leather. It is promoted as a cruelty-free and eco-conscious option, which has been embraced by consumers who want to reduce their environmental footprint.
However, what many don’t realise is that vegan leather can be far more harmful to the environment than real leather. And there’s a simple reason for this: vegan leather is increasingly produced from oil, which makes it plastic.
And as any self-respecting environmentalist knows, plastic is something that this world does NOT need more of! So, let’s educate ourselves so that we can make better shopping decisions by diving into the reasons why vegan leather is actually worse than real leather.
- Plastic is the main material of most vegan leathers
The vast majority of vegan leather on the market today is made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polyurethane (PU). Both of these are synthetic polymers derived from fossil fuels.
While these materials allow brands to create a leather-like look and feel, their environmental impact is significant. There are two major issues with it, which are:
- such vegan leathers are non-biodegradable
- they worsen the micro plastics problem we already have.
Plastic-based vegan leathers do not break down naturally in the environment, obviously. Thus a PVC or PU jacket or bag could persist in landfills for hundreds of years, leaching harmful chemicals into the soil and groundwater.
And over time, vegan leather made from plastic can degrade into microplastics. These are tiny fragments that infiltrate oceans and rivers, harming marine life. Eventually these microplastics find their way into our bodies as well.
Once in the ecosystem, microplastics are nearly impossible to remove and can even enter the food chain. This, of course, poses health risks to humans and animals alike.
In contrast, real leather is biodegradable. It decomposes over time, particularly if it is not treated with heavy chemical processes (like chrome tanning).
While it’s true that traditional leather processing can involve pollutants, the raw material itself has a natural life cycle, unlike its synthetic alternatives.
- The carbon footprint of synthetic materials
One of the main arguments for vegan leather is that it avoids the carbon emissions associated with raising livestock. However, manufacturing plastic-based vegan leather is very far from carbon-neutral.
The process of making PVC and PU involves the extraction and refinement of petroleum, which is highly energy-intensive. It also releases a significant amount of greenhouse gases.
Moreover, the production of vegan leather requires toxic chemicals like phthalates, which are used to soften PVC. Phthalates are known endocrine disruptors that can affect both human and wildlife health. These harmful chemicals have been found in large quantities in Shein and Temu products.
In comparison, while livestock farming does generate carbon emissions, leather is often a byproduct of the meat industry. This way it makes use of an otherwise wasted material. Therefore, real leather can be seen as contributing to a circular economy in a way that plastic vegan leather cannot.
- Greenwashing in vegan leather marketing
Many brands capitalize on the rising demand for ethical and sustainable products by marketing vegan leather as an “eco-friendly” choice. However, this is greenwashing! It means using misleading claims to create a false impression of environmental responsibility.
For example, a product made from PU may be labelled as “vegan” or “sustainable” without mentioning the underlying environmental costs of plastic production. This is also known as false marketing.
This often leads consumers to believe that vegan leather is an inherently better option. But in reality they are purchasing a product that will contribute to long-term pollution.
Real leather, when sourced from responsible tanneries that prioritise sustainable practices, is often a more environmentally sound choice than these plastic-based alternatives.
- Toxic chemicals and waste
Both the production and disposal of plastic vegan leather contribute to chemical pollution. PVC manufacturing, in particular, releases dioxins. These are highly toxic compounds that are harmful to both humans and wildlife.
Additionally, when synthetic leather is incinerated at the end of its life, it can release harmful toxins into the atmosphere. This, again, adds greatly to air pollution.
- On the other hand, leather tanning, especially in poorly regulated industries, can involve harmful chemicals like chromium.
- However, the rise of vegetable tanning and other more eco-friendly processes shows that the leather industry is capable of reducing its chemical footprint.
- Additionally, real leather can be repaired and conditioned, which gives it a longer lifespan than many vegan leather products that wear out more quickly.
- Longevity and durability
One of the less discussed downsides of vegan leather is its short lifespan. Products made from synthetic materials, especially cheaper forms of PU or PVC, tend to wear out faster than real leather.
- Over time, vegan leather can crack, peel, and lose its shape, meaning that it needs to be replaced more frequently.
- This leads to a cycle of fast fashion, where synthetic leather items are constantly being thrown away and replaced.
- Once again, this only adds to the environmental degradation.
Real leather, by contrast, is known for its durability. A well-made leather product can last for decades if properly cared for. Even when leather shows signs of wear, it can often be restored with oils, polishes, and repairs.
As such, real leather products are a long-lasting investment compared to synthetic alternatives that end up in landfills far sooner.
What About Plant-Based Leathers?
There are emerging forms of vegan leather made from plant materials like pineapple leaves (Pi?atex), mushrooms, and apples. While these alternatives are more sustainable than plastic-based options, they still come with challenges.
Many plant-based leathers are not yet biodegradable and still incorporate synthetic resins or coatings to improve durability, which can compromise their environmental benefits.
Additionally, the environmental impact of cultivating and processing the raw materials for plant-based leathers can be significant. It requires energy, water, and chemicals to turn natural fibres into something that resembles leather.
The scalability of these options is still limited compared to plastic-based vegan leathers. And this will only worsen if the climate crisis keeps getting worse.
Conclusion: A Need for Honest Conversations
Vegan leather may sound like an ethical choice at first, but the reality is far more complex. The heavy reliance on plastics, the toxic production processes, and the issue of non-biodegradability make most vegan leathers far from eco-friendly.
In contrast, real leather offers greater durability, natural decomposition, and a circular use of animal byproducts. Especially when produced using sustainable practices.
The key takeaway is that no material is perfect. Consumers must carefully weigh the pros and cons of both vegan and real leather. They should consider factors like longevity, production methods, and disposal options.
In many cases, the “green” choice might be the one that lasts longer, reduces waste, and treads lightly on the environment. And real leather is (at the moment) that choice.
